Mickey Hudson

What will Mickey be teaching in this 4 week, “Hands On” Class?

Mickey gave us a free demonstration of the Islander techniques (read more about the Islander system below) on Monday evening May 24th.  16 people attended and enjoyed seeing new ways to sew.  Following consensus of the attendees’ surveys, we have formulated what Mickey will be teaching this 4 week session.  There is a kit fee ($20 total paid to Mickey at the first meeting) for the Zippers and Industrial Shortcuts, so you do not need to bring any fabric for those 2 parts of the class. You will need your machine and sewing kit for the whole 4 weeks.  YES, YOU WILL BE SEWING!  THIS IS NOT A DEMONSTRATION, IT IS A “TRY IT FOR YOURSELF” Class.  For the Shirt-making part, you will receive a supplies list once you are registered/paid for the class.  You do not need to have attended the Free Demonstration we hosted, in order to attend Mickey’s class.  Though, you will get the most out of it if you have already sewn garments.

Mickey will share several of the industrial techniques used in ready-to-wear garments, including:

• cutting
• pattern preparation
• handling fabric without pins, and more.
• Learn secrets for handling curves
• crossing seams
• special methods for pockets
• hems
• flat felled seams

You will learn how to do a variety of Zipper insertions:

• Slotted Zipper (centered)
• Lapped Zipper
• Invisible Zipper
• Placket (mock fly front) Zipper
• Fly front (like jeans with a fly shield)

Shirts Etc!    Shirts made easy.

Mickey reveals industrial sewing secrets and techniques that yield professional-looking, top quality shirts for men and women.  All the techniques you’ll learn will work just as well on other sewing projects:

• Pockets
• Yokes
• 2-piece collar and stand
• Sleeve setting
• Cuffs
• Pressing and much, much more.
• All with NO pins, NO basting, NO trimming.

Whether you sew for fashion or for fun, embellishments or embroidery, wearable art or quilting, a classic shirt goes a long way for all things.

Mickey will also be teaching this Summer on Tuesday evenings.  Mickey will be teaching a Galaxy of Islander techniques, (more about that in the next few weeks.)  Plus, she will be working with some of the youth camps.  In the Fall, Mickey will be working on Pants Pattern drafting and sewing techniques.We are lucky to have her available right now.  Usually, she is on the road, sharing her love of sewing with people across the US and Canada.  Mickey is taking a break from her travels to work on her pattern line and hone the new set of classes she will be offering when she is on the road again.

Margaret Islander, founder of the Islander Sewing System

So What is the Islander System?

This is what Mickey says about it:

Margaret Islander promotes a sewing method based on industrial shortcuts adapted for the home machine. Although many of the techniques are based on factory methods, Margaret is quick to point out that her aim is to make sewing a joyful experience. She believes “Sewing is an art form. If you look at it as just practical, you will miss the joy.”

The Islander Sewing System emphasizes that the key to creativity is total awareness of materials and machines. The techniques are so deceptively simple that they become second nature. This means that you can quickly turn your ideas into reality without having to resort to complicated and cumbersome methods.

Margaret’s 35-year background of training and experience cover garment production comprehensively (in addition to her prior background in textiles, couture, fitting and tailoring). As a technician at a Los Angeles training center for garment industry workers, she mastered every aspect of production, including speed systems, production sewing, cutting, pattern drafting and pattern grading. Based on this training, she developed her first “Industrial Shortcuts for Home Sewing” course in the early 1970′s. As the demand for her expertise grew, she founded the Islander School of Fashion Arts.

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Mickey modeling one of her shirts

About Mickey, in her own words:

Like many young girls, I learned how to sew from my mother, who did not really enjoy sewing nor was she very good at it.  Despite the lack of encouragement and formal instruction, I continued sewing for myself and family members. My early projects were all variety of monstrosity, but I had fallen in love with the art of sewing.  Determined to learn correctly, I signed up for a beginner-sewing course.  This class was a turning point for me. The instructor had taught me what the grain line was and how to sew a straight seam.  All those years of sewing and figuring things out for myself had paid off.  When I finished the course, the instructor hired me as a teacher.  I started with my own beginner-sewing course. I was on a new career path, and have been teaching and working in the sewing world ever since. I started with beginners and now teach all skill levels.

I am also a Certified Islander Sewing Systems instructor. I am known far and wide as the “Shortcut Queen”.  Those who see my work are amazed at how little time it takes me to get such professional results.  The Islander Sewing System uses the same professional techniques used in the garment industry. No pins, no basting, no kidding!

My greatest reward is watching my students’ excitement and confidence grow as their sewing skills develop and improve.

Liz White, Mickey Hudson and Laura showing 2 of the 3 shirts Laura made, using the techniques learned in Mickey's Shirt, etc. class.

Liz and I have been taking Mickey’s classes together. Liz, being a pin-a-holic, amazingly sewed 2 shirts of her own without pins!  A miracle witnessed by me.  I made the red shirt first.  After having cut it out, I spent under 3 hours sewing everything except attaching the cuffs and working the buttonholes.  The colorful dotted shirt I made a couple days later.  It has princess seams, 3/4 length sleeves with turnback cuffs and stacked buttons.  Both of these shirts were made without pins, and using the Islander Sewing System.

Walter in 3rd of 3 shirts made by Laura

Walter is wearing the 3rd shirt I made in 6 days.  Again, I used the Islander techniques.  Walter and I bought the fabric for this shirt at Portsmouth Fabric Co, Portsmouth, NH, while we were on vacation in February.  I matched the pattern across the front opening.  You cannot see it in the picture above, but Walter chose some really cool buttons.  They are made of Mother of Pearl.  The background is black and there are Asian characters on each button.

Here is a closeup:

Close up of Walter's Japanese Shirt

We are very happy to have Liane Weber join our teaching staff here at Laura’s Sewing School & More.  We may offer many sewing classes, but our goal is to be able to give you the opportunity to learn how to work with fibers in many ways.  Sewing, first, Knitting, then crochet or felting or whatever you want, we will try to provide.

Liane has a huge amount of experience in knitting and has a strong background in teaching.  She was on staff at Wolcott in Harvard Square.  Unfortunately, they closed this past year, but that has been good for us, because, Liane is now available to share her knowledge with us.  Would you like to learn how to knit a Mobius Hat?  How about a shawl, mittens, a stuffed animal?  Maybe, a sweater or some other great project?  Whether it is learning from square one with 2 sticks and a string, or expanding your skills into knitting with color or texture, Liane can help you.

To start, we will be offering one Adult Knitting class on Tuesday evenings.  It will begin on February 23rd, meet for 2.5 hours from 6:30-9pm.  The cost is $195 plus materials.  Limit of 6 students per class.

For Kids, we will be holding an after school class on Wednesday afternoons.  It will begin on February 24th and meet for 2 hours from 3-5pm.  The cost is $175 plus materials.  Limit of 6 students per class.

We have a great living room space at the front of the Sewing School, which will make a comfortable space for you to learn your craft.  We look forward to having you join us.  If you should have any questions, please feel free to contact us by phone or email.

Flexible design curve

Variform Curve

French Curve

C-Thru Ruler (2" x 18")

The following are the extra items needed for the Pattern Fitting Class.  I am still having problems loading pictures with the new website software, so please be patient with me.  You can contact me and I will send you an attachment, which has this list with all of the accompanying photos.

Most rulers can be found at an art store. Also, look online at various tailor supply houses: Atlanta Thread, Clotilde, Staples, Playtime, Sew True.  Some of the Tailoring sources offer a whole patternmaking kit.  If you are serious about fitting patterns, altering styles of patterns, knocking off garments (copying), or actual patternmaking, you may want to go ahead an buy one.  They usually come in a large zippered portfolio, which makes it easy to store.  They usually run $95+.  For this class, you don’t need all of that.  What you do need are the following:

Variform Curved Ruler

French curve (clear plastic in this case)

Measured Design curve.  You can bend it to take whatever shape you need it to.  Great for copying curves.

C-thru ruler, clear plastic, 18” x 2”

Various colors of marking pens

Commercial Clothing pattern, you know, McCall’s, Vogue, Simplicity, Burda, etc.  Find one which is fitted, rather than loose.  Choose one garment, pants, or blouse or jacket.

Purchase twice the muslin or other inexpensive fabric you need to make the garment.

Contrasting threads

Tape measure (you will be given one at the first class)
All the basic sewing tools. The list of which can be found on my website at: www.laurassewingschool.com/category/sewing-tools-supplies

If it has anything to do with fabric, fashion, design, production, and especially shopping, it must be worth going, right?  Well, I did go on a couple of small trips with my students this year and we had a great time.  Organized to be fun, relaxed, include a bit of eating and shopping for good materials, what more could you want?

I am planning on organizing more jaunts around New England.  There are so many great places to go see in relation to sewing.  I mention in my current newsletter a variety of interesting destinations:
Here are some ideas:

Attend the Iris Apfel Exhibit at the PEM Tour the American Textile History Museum
Take a Trip to the Portsmouth Fabric Co
Go to Sawyer Brook in Clinton
Day trip to Osgood Textiles in Springfield
Visit a Sewing Factory

To find out more about each of these places, following the links in the list.  Better to go get the info directly from the source.  Here are some of my comments.  The Iris Apfel exhibit is only at the PEM until February 7th, so I would vote to go there sooner rather than later.  The American Textile History Museum is in Lowell, is easy to find, has parking and has a great exhibit demonstrating the history of textiles.  They also have a really nice cafe in the lobby. I never tire of seeing this museum.  Also, in Lowell, are the New England Quilt Museum and Georges Textiles (mostly Home Dec Fabric.)

Area Fabric Stores to check out, could be as close as the Quilter’s Way, in West Concord, or the Fiber Loft in Harvard, MA.  They are a good resource for knitting, weaving, spinning and fibers.  The Boston ASG had a meeting there late this Fall.  I think any place that is within an easy day trip can be considered.

You tell me what you want to see or where you want to go, and I will try to accommodate your request. The best days for me to lead a trip, are Mondays, Saturdays and Sundays.  Please give me feedback and I will let you know what I have set up.  We can probably do any of the trips with just 5 people and who knows what the upper limit would be?  Being an informal trip, we would carpool, get there at the appointed time and if possible, stop at a pre-arranged location for lunch.  (preferably a nice soup/sandwich kind of place) There is a lovely orchard near Sawyer Brook in Sterling which serves lunch and homemade bake goods.  And earlier this year, we went to Popovers for lunch on our trip to Portsmouth, NH.

Click here to go take our “Field Trip” Survey. I’d like to set up our first outing for January.

So, I never realized how much many of you like my ironing table top.  I am making a new one this week for the shop.  When I mentioned it in class, I had a large number of people offering to either take the old one off my hands or they requested that I show them how to make them.  SO, I have schedule a one-time workshop to do so.  It will take place on Sunday, January 24th, from 1-4pm.  I will provide all of the materials and the cost of the class includes those.  I am charging my cost for the materials and having them all delivered to my school.  The final board will measure 28″ x 80″ x 2″.  It will be nicely padded with a material meant for this purpose and a nice drill cloth also designed for this use.  We will simply work in teams, cutting and stapling the padding and then the cover in place.  You will be able to take it home with you at the end of the class.  Make sure that you have a vehicle that can carry this for you.  It isn’t so heavy as it is awkward to maneuver.

I searched and searched my photo library to show you the ironing surface.  My usual focus, when I take pictures, is the student and her project, not the shop.  I finally found one from when I was getting ready to open my current location.  You can see the ironing surface on top of the cabinets.  That is what we will be making.

Here’s a summary of the information:

Date: Sunday, January 24, 2010

Time: 1-4pm

At: Laura’s Sewing School

Cost: $120, this includes the class time and materials.  You need bring nothing, other than a vehicle in which to take this home.

Limit of 6 students.

Please sign up ASAP.  I need time for the materials to be shipped/delivered.  So, I would say that my deadline is January 12th.  If there are more people wanting to take this workshop than I have space for, I will schedule another date for this same class.

The following pics are from 2009.  These are just a portion of what students have accomplished here in their classes.

All the rage here at Laura’s Sewing School, we are having such fun and interest in making Amy Butler’s gumdrop pillows that I have scheduled a one day workshop for us to go wild and make them together.  I will order the stuffing and patterns and you will purchase the fabric of your choice.  You can see the details (dimensions, materials list) about the pattern on Amy Butler’s website.
These cushions are made of drapery weight fabric.  You can find that weight of fabric here in Arlington, at Fabric Corner, at Freddy Farkel’s in Watertown (also known as Fabric Showplace) and online.  Fabric Corner just ordered a large selection of Amy Butler home dec fabrics and they have received 12 of them! They will go fast, especially because they will be posting them for online sale, too. So, you may want to get there as soon as you can to pick up the fabric.  If the weight is fine, it can be any brand of fabric.  You just don’t want a fabric which is too loosely woven, or unravels easily.  Fabric.com has a nice selection of Amy Butler printed twills if you want to use her fabric designs.  There are 8 panels, all the same, which are sewn together like sections of an orange.  They are packed with a LOT of stuffing.  I found hand sewing the first one, Amy Lou actually did that work since it was her project, rather tedious.  So, when I made MY first one, I used an invisible zipper to close the pillow once it was stuff.  Much easier and quicker.

Kids absolutely love this pillow. They have found it as a great place to sit and bounce and roll on or off.  Adults do find it useful as a footrest.   You can make them with one fabric or two.  If you cut it from one fabric, you fussy cut it, making sure that it is cut in the very same place on the fabric, for all the pieces.  This makes interesting, kaleidoscopic patterns, especially if the fabric has symmetry.  You can see this on both of Amy’s pillows.  Even though I used 2 fabrics in the pillows for my nieces, I did cut all of the large-scale, patterned fabric in the same place.  There is an octagonal patch on the top of the cushion.  I fussy cut that, centering it on a flower or pattern.

I propose that the workshop be on Sunday, March 15th.  From 10am-4pm.  That should give us plenty of time to work and eat and stuff and finish one gumdrop cushion.  The next one, you will be able to do on your own and much faster.  I will provide the stuffing and the pattern. You provide the fabric, thread (good quality polyester like Gutermann or Mettler) and an invisible zipper in a matching color.  The only part of the zipper to show will be the tab.  Buy a 12-14″ zipper or longer.  It will work for either size pillow.  And, if you have to buy a longer zipper to get a color match, it is very easy to shorten.  Better too long than too short!  The Fabric Corner sells invisible zippers and the presser foot to apply it to your project.  I just talked to them about ordering enough for all of you.  The presser foot is adaptable to most sewing machines and can be used over and over again.  It is reasonably priced and worth buying.

I will have to price out the patterns and stuffing.  So, I will have to get back to you on the price for the class.  I think that we can have 5, possibly 6 students for the day.  Let me know if you want to take the class and I will let you know the price.  If the 22nd of March is better than the 15th, let me know.  I am flexible about the date.  If you are available during the day, M-F, I could possibly meet with you for a workshop on a Thursday.  I am excited about this project.

We are in a time when people are concerned about their jobs and income.  Many of us are looking for ways to save money by doing things ourselves we may have paid to have done it the past.  Sewing can be a great skill to have with this in mind.  Hiring a decorator costs money.  And, having any curtains or pillows or bed clothes made for you, is unbelievably expensive. (I promise that I will post pictures ASAP)  This is too boring to read without illustrations….well maybe not boring, but far easier to understand if you have photos to look at.)
You can save a lot by making your own roman shades or other items.  I made 9 roman shades for a sunroom I had.  I designed them to pull up from the bottom or drop down from the top.  That way, I could still have light and an open feel, but gain privacy on the street side of the house.  There are some custom mail order services which will make your curtains and shades to order.  One very good one is Smith & Noble.  They do quality work with a quick turn around.  They have very nice fabric options, etc.  I looked up the price of one roman shade.  At the time, they offered top down OR bottom up options separately, not together.  One shade with similar measurements to mine would cost $250 at that time (7 yrs ago?)

I made 9 shades from some sale fabric I liked, and spent approximately $100 for all 9, including the hardware, wood (for mounting boards and slats at the top and bottom of the shades) and cording.  I even made shade pulls for the ends of the cords out of Fimo clay.  I was able to use a color which went well with the fabric.  Make them the size I wanted and then set the clay by baking it in the oven.  Didn’t smell the best, but the weather was warm so I opened the windows.

I reupholstered a wing chair I have.  It is a quality piece originally from Ethan Allen.  The fabric on it was a large bargello weave.  There was a tack line along the wings, arms and base of the chair.  It took me forever to get the tacks out.  They were only decorative.  I think there were over 300 of them.  I never liked the tacks because they would rub along the bone between my elbow and wrist.  I saw some fabric I liked at Fabric Place and bought enough for the chair.  I thought I would do it myself.  Then I changed my mind and decided to have it done for me.  I was going to cost me $585 without the cost of the fabric.  I waited until I could put aside that kind of money for it.  I forgot about it for awhile.  That was until almost 3 years ago.  I had a student who came to me, who was taking an upholstery class at the Fabric Place in Framingham at the same time as mine.  It was 10 weeks long.  Toward the end of the FP class, she told me that I needed to help her finish her wing chair.  I told her that I wasn’t sure if I was the best person to help her.  She insisted that I could.  And, that I should do my own chair for practice.  I had worked a short time for an upholsterer in Northern Wisconsin in 1988.  I had done cushions and foot stools and many other projects.  But, I was a little shy about a wing chair.  They are a more advance item to work on.  I have a lot of books on upholstery.  I find it very interesting and I have done a few slipcovers.

So, she convinced me to do it.  I focused all my spare sewing time on it for 10 days.  I took very good notes as I removed each part of the original cover, so that I could remember how things went together.  I saved all the fabric panels to use as patterns.  What surprised me, is that once the agony of extracting so many tacks and staples was over, that upholstering the piece was far easier than slipcovering it would have been.  You cut panels of fabric larger than you need in a shape similar to the original.  Staple it to the frame in a certain order and then cut away the excess fabric.  It requires very little actual sewing!  The only things I needed to sew were piping/welting and the cushion cover and arm covers.  It came out very well.  And, even though I spent time on the project, I enjoyed it and continue to enjoy the chair in my Living Room.  One funny thing was that I thought I had bought the fabric 2 years before.  Fabric Place would always place a sales slip on the fabric when you bought it.  I hadn’t removed the slip and when I looked at it, I realized that I had bought the fabric 4 years earlier!  You must use no fabric before its time..it must age appropriately…..(that’s a take-off from an old wine commercial with Orson Welles saying, “We sell no wine before its time.”)

Simpler projects can be fast and easy.  I made my dog 2 different beds from fabric left over from other projects.  I’ve made pillows, valances, bookcase curtains on swing rods.  Placemats, table runners, tablecloths, napkins, sewing machine covers, book covers, (I don’t want people knowing what I really read, “fluff,” or as one of my HS students calls it “Chiclet reading.”)  It’s hard to even think or list all the home items I have made.  Oh, another is a bean bag ottoman cube.  I have one in my school’s living room area.  It is very comfortable to rest your feet on and is simply a cube.

Bedroom items: shams, quilts, duvet covers, dust ruffles, curtains, throw pillows, hanger covers for those clothes which are not worn often, so you want to cover the shoulders to keep off the dust.

Bathroom: Shower curtains (to be used with a waterproof liner), window curtains or roman shades or valances, sink skirts, cosmetic bags or a hanging storage bag with pockets for all of the separate items.

I could go on, and I probably will.  But, it is getting late and I do want to post some pictures for you.  So, I will sign off for now.