Got Tape anyone?
I am very interested in custom-made dress forms of late. Most of my adult life, I would buy a pattern, add 5 inches to the pants length and 2 inches to the sleeves, and the clothing would fit fine. I have steadily been gaining weight over the last decade and can no longer do that. Who wants to make clothes that don’t fit? It’s a lot of work wasted if you do not take the time to do the fitting. But, to do this well, you need a good sewing friend to help you, or a dress form that fits your body.

So, I have been researching custom forms and experimenting with forms made of duct tape or paper packaging tape.

These are pictures of my daughter and her custom-made form of duct tape. I am hoping to schedule a class to share my findings with you, so that you can make a form that fits your body, too. The first date I am considering is coming up fast – Sunday, February 9, 2008 from 10am-4pm. (NOTE THE CHANGE OF DATE!)

I have spoken to my current students, and many of you would like to do this. So, I say, “Why wait?” I am thinking that we should limit the class to 10 students, working in pairs, or even better, trios. If there are more students than I can accommodate that day, I will set another date soon. I will post a small list of what you need to bring, shortly. By clicking on the links in the paragraph above the picture, you can get a preview of what we will be doing. In fact, if you do plan on taking the class, I encourage you to read up as much as you can so that you will be familiar with the process.

Threads Magazine has had articles over the years about dress forms. Click here to view the a summary of the 4 different ways they recommend to making your own forms. Their article also includes links to various websites which have more detailed instructions and pdf downloads.

The cost for the day is $90. We will have refreshments and lunch available. Duct tape is included. Plus most of the other materials needed. That way, you can eat when you are not being fit.

If you should have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

So, after all of this, here is what you need to bring with you when you come to the workshop:

• Long T-shirt or close-fitting turtleneck, this will become part of the dress form, so it has to be one that you are willing to sacrifice to the cause! If the shirt doesn’t go past the hipline, we can extend it

• Leggings or tights to wear while being taped

• Undergarments like you wear under most of your clothes, so that the form will be shaped (conformed, constricted, or left to hang) like your body is on a daily basis.

• Breath mints, just kidding!

If you have been to the shop, or see the pictures on the site, you know that there are large windows across the front and on the door. All shades and curtains will be pulled closed and the door will be locked so that we won’t have any surprise visitors while we are holding this workshop. If at any time you feel uncomfortable, we will stop and cut the form off immediately.

I will walk everyone through the process and demonstrate the taping techniques. We may need to do some prep of your shirt, etc. and we will do that, too. I will supervise every form made so that you will be happy with the one you take home with you. No swapping!

I think that teams of 3 work really well. One person being taped by 2 others. One in front and one in back. I think it will go better that way and faster.

There are ways to make stands and fill the forms. I will present them to you and you can decide what you want to do. You will need to buy fiberfill, (polyester fill for pillows and stuffed animals) to fill and support your form. I have seen various options, included packing peanuts. I have seen it recommended that the bust be filled with raglan shoulder pads. Let’s see how it goes and I will answer any questions you have about finishing them. If need be, we may have a short follow-up class.

The final thing is that I can teach you how to use your form through the classes you take for sewing. If your body does change, you will know how to make the form. With help from a good friend, you can remake the form in short order and very little monetary outlay.

I look forward to seeing you on Sunday, March 16th!

Learning new ways to produce historic garments

This past week, at my daughter’s school, they held a World Fest. It was a great opportunity to expose the students to other cultures. The students were encouraged to wear costumes during the day representing their national background.

Since our background in mainly Finnish, with a little Swedish thrown in, I did an online search for what a traditional costume for a girl would be in Finland. I found these two websites: Finnish National Costume and Kutri’s Korner.

I decided to make an outfit which would evoke the feel of the costume while making use of fabrics in my stash. I found a woven striped fabric I made into a simple dirndl skirt. It took me less than an hour, which lead me to believe that I could easily make a whole outfit in a day. The apron was one I made for a friend’s daughter for Colonial Days at her school (Brackett Elementary) last Spring. I borrowed that and she gave me a button-down, white shirt to use if I needed it.

I didn’t see any good vest patterns online. So, I pinned pieces of Swedish Tracing Paper to my daughter’s T-shirt. (I actually prefer Pattern Ease, but I used what I had.) I traced the lines I wanted for the vest and fit the paper to her shape. I made a pattern, adding seam allowances and truing seamlines. Even though it was for one day, I couldn’t bring myself to do anything other than make a fully lined and finish garment. I found some Logger’s Flannel which I had bought years ago from The Rain Shed. Finnish vests are made from wool, luckily, this heavy flannel looked a lot like wool. I lined it in black moire, interfacing the front with Knit Fuse interfacing. The front closures are some frog-like links we had bought from the Wright’s Ribbon Outlet in Sturbridge, MA. (If you have never been there, it is worth the trip!) I don’t know why we bought them, I think it was one of the items Amelia chose with the shopping allowance I gave her. Fortunate for us when it came to making this outfit. I was very tired when it was time to attach them to the vest, so I tacked them on with the machine, in matching thread.

The last item was a white blouse. I didn’t have time to make a whole new blouse, but I wasn’t happy with the look of a button-down shirt in it’s place. So, I compromised and removed the collar and cuffs. I added a gathered flounce collar to the neckline and trimmed it in lace. The lace was actually from a lace snowflake kit I bought at Wright’s outlet. Then, I released the pleat at the bottom of the sleeve, added fabric and sewed lace over the joining seam. I wove burgundy cording through the lace and tied it around the sleeve. It was almost 3 am by that time, so I packed it all up and went home to bed.

My daughter had some white tights and black shoes which completed the outfit. I knew that it wasn’t exactly what the girls wear in Finland, but was pleased later in the day when I ran into a friend who had spent time in Finland an exclaimed that the outfit looked just like what she saw girls wearing when she lived there. Amelia made the appropriate praises and gave me a nice number of hugs to have made the loss of sleep worthwhile.

In Massachusetts, the public schools have 3rd graders study Colonial times. Many schools have Colonial Days in which the students come to school for the day dressed in costumes like children would wear during that time in history.

I have a special interest in this since my daughter is in 3rd grade this year. She has an American Girl Doll “from” Colonial Williamsburg. Elizabeth is her name. The February vacation (2006) after she received the doll, we visited Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia. I have a friend, Amy, who coaches the Fifes and Drums corps there and often plays music on flute and piano for events in Williamsburg historic area. The visitor center allows parents to rent costumes for the children to wear. They are simple white dresses and mop caps for girls. I have to admit that I cannot remember what they had for boys, other than 3 cornered hats. It was fun for my daughter to walk around wearing the dress and cap, carrying her doll, who was in her own costume, too.

I remember when Amy started working there over 10 years ago. She talked to me about how she had to make her own dress. It had to be out of certain materials and sewn all by hand!

Well, I am not so interested in being that authentic. Meaning, I plan to use a sewing machine for most of the construction. Luckily, McCall’s Pilgrim or McCall’s Fancier Colonial and Simplicity have issued patterns for different eras in American history. Unfortunately, these patterns are only available for girls. They offer no patterns of this era for boys. The following do have patterns for both. There is a company in Colorado, Patterns of Time, which offers many historic patterns. Sewing Central offers patterns and material. You may find Kannik’s Korner on the previous 2 sites, but they do offer a few patterns for girls and boys. Harper House offers many patterns from various eras. Their link takes you to the page for Children’s Colonial clothing. All of these linked names will take you as close as I can get you to pages for patterns for Children. You may find it fun to explore the sites. I have never used the patterns of these independent companies. They may be best suited to an experienced sewer.

The patterns vary in difficulty. Last year, I made costumes for my neighbor and her daughter. They were very simple, and we can use the patterns I drafted, too.

I have purchased the McCall’s and Simplicity patterns so that I can make samples for you to see. I may end up making the more elaborate dress while we are working on your projects. I will hang it near the front window so you you can observe the progress of the outfit. As soon as I finish the first dress, I will post it online here. I will find a pattern for a boy’s outfit, too. They can be easier to manufacture from their current wardrobe by altering pants and dressing with the right accessories.

I have been trying to find a time in my class schedule that would work for us to meet as a group on this topic of sewing. I would like to propose Wednesday evenings. Or, it may be possible to do a Thursday 11am-2pm time slot. If those times do not work for you, join any class. My classes allow you to work on what you want at your own pace, so it would be fine to come at a class time that is convenient. Though, I think that working together on these outfits together can be helpful, inspiring and a lot of fun.