Mickey Hudson

What will Mickey be teaching in this 4 week, “Hands On” Class?

Mickey gave us a free demonstration of the Islander techniques (read more about the Islander system below) on Monday evening May 24th.  16 people attended and enjoyed seeing new ways to sew.  Following consensus of the attendees’ surveys, we have formulated what Mickey will be teaching this 4 week session.  There is a kit fee ($20 total paid to Mickey at the first meeting) for the Zippers and Industrial Shortcuts, so you do not need to bring any fabric for those 2 parts of the class. You will need your machine and sewing kit for the whole 4 weeks.  YES, YOU WILL BE SEWING!  THIS IS NOT A DEMONSTRATION, IT IS A “TRY IT FOR YOURSELF” Class.  For the Shirt-making part, you will receive a supplies list once you are registered/paid for the class.  You do not need to have attended the Free Demonstration we hosted, in order to attend Mickey’s class.  Though, you will get the most out of it if you have already sewn garments.

Mickey will share several of the industrial techniques used in ready-to-wear garments, including:

• cutting
• pattern preparation
• handling fabric without pins, and more.
• Learn secrets for handling curves
• crossing seams
• special methods for pockets
• hems
• flat felled seams

You will learn how to do a variety of Zipper insertions:

• Slotted Zipper (centered)
• Lapped Zipper
• Invisible Zipper
• Placket (mock fly front) Zipper
• Fly front (like jeans with a fly shield)

Shirts Etc!    Shirts made easy.

Mickey reveals industrial sewing secrets and techniques that yield professional-looking, top quality shirts for men and women.  All the techniques you’ll learn will work just as well on other sewing projects:

• Pockets
• Yokes
• 2-piece collar and stand
• Sleeve setting
• Cuffs
• Pressing and much, much more.
• All with NO pins, NO basting, NO trimming.

Whether you sew for fashion or for fun, embellishments or embroidery, wearable art or quilting, a classic shirt goes a long way for all things.

Mickey will also be teaching this Summer on Tuesday evenings.  Mickey will be teaching a Galaxy of Islander techniques, (more about that in the next few weeks.)  Plus, she will be working with some of the youth camps.  In the Fall, Mickey will be working on Pants Pattern drafting and sewing techniques.We are lucky to have her available right now.  Usually, she is on the road, sharing her love of sewing with people across the US and Canada.  Mickey is taking a break from her travels to work on her pattern line and hone the new set of classes she will be offering when she is on the road again.

Margaret Islander, founder of the Islander Sewing System

So What is the Islander System?

This is what Mickey says about it:

Margaret Islander promotes a sewing method based on industrial shortcuts adapted for the home machine. Although many of the techniques are based on factory methods, Margaret is quick to point out that her aim is to make sewing a joyful experience. She believes “Sewing is an art form. If you look at it as just practical, you will miss the joy.”

The Islander Sewing System emphasizes that the key to creativity is total awareness of materials and machines. The techniques are so deceptively simple that they become second nature. This means that you can quickly turn your ideas into reality without having to resort to complicated and cumbersome methods.

Margaret’s 35-year background of training and experience cover garment production comprehensively (in addition to her prior background in textiles, couture, fitting and tailoring). As a technician at a Los Angeles training center for garment industry workers, she mastered every aspect of production, including speed systems, production sewing, cutting, pattern drafting and pattern grading. Based on this training, she developed her first “Industrial Shortcuts for Home Sewing” course in the early 1970′s. As the demand for her expertise grew, she founded the Islander School of Fashion Arts.

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Mickey modeling one of her shirts

About Mickey, in her own words:

Like many young girls, I learned how to sew from my mother, who did not really enjoy sewing nor was she very good at it.  Despite the lack of encouragement and formal instruction, I continued sewing for myself and family members. My early projects were all variety of monstrosity, but I had fallen in love with the art of sewing.  Determined to learn correctly, I signed up for a beginner-sewing course.  This class was a turning point for me. The instructor had taught me what the grain line was and how to sew a straight seam.  All those years of sewing and figuring things out for myself had paid off.  When I finished the course, the instructor hired me as a teacher.  I started with my own beginner-sewing course. I was on a new career path, and have been teaching and working in the sewing world ever since. I started with beginners and now teach all skill levels.

I am also a Certified Islander Sewing Systems instructor. I am known far and wide as the “Shortcut Queen”.  Those who see my work are amazed at how little time it takes me to get such professional results.  The Islander Sewing System uses the same professional techniques used in the garment industry. No pins, no basting, no kidding!

My greatest reward is watching my students’ excitement and confidence grow as their sewing skills develop and improve.

Liz White, Mickey Hudson and Laura showing 2 of the 3 shirts Laura made, using the techniques learned in Mickey's Shirt, etc. class.

Liz and I have been taking Mickey’s classes together. Liz, being a pin-a-holic, amazingly sewed 2 shirts of her own without pins!  A miracle witnessed by me.  I made the red shirt first.  After having cut it out, I spent under 3 hours sewing everything except attaching the cuffs and working the buttonholes.  The colorful dotted shirt I made a couple days later.  It has princess seams, 3/4 length sleeves with turnback cuffs and stacked buttons.  Both of these shirts were made without pins, and using the Islander Sewing System.

Walter in 3rd of 3 shirts made by Laura

Walter is wearing the 3rd shirt I made in 6 days.  Again, I used the Islander techniques.  Walter and I bought the fabric for this shirt at Portsmouth Fabric Co, Portsmouth, NH, while we were on vacation in February.  I matched the pattern across the front opening.  You cannot see it in the picture above, but Walter chose some really cool buttons.  They are made of Mother of Pearl.  The background is black and there are Asian characters on each button.

Here is a closeup:

Close up of Walter's Japanese Shirt

Kathy and I first met when she started attending one of my classes 6 years ago. She heard about me through her friend, Mary Poor, who had been taking lessons with me. Kathy kept coming week after week, month after month. She started with home dec, never imagining she would sew clothing, let alone, knits. Now, Kathy’s outlet is sewing and she has a fabulous new sewing room in the house she and her husband, Noam, just moved into after lengthy renovations.

Kathy has become a very good friend and has gone exploring the internet and fabric websites and pattern makers I hadn’t even known existed. Recently, we took a trip out to Sawyer Brook Fabrics in Clinton, MA, together. Pattern Review arranged a special day visiting SBF. They opened the showroom on a Saturday for us, gave us a preview of their fabric line and let us loose in the showroom to purchase fabric. I only bought 4 pieces, hah! A beautiful silk tweed; a soft, pinwale printed corduroy; and 2 different knits. I will post pictures when I finish those garments. After we finished at SBF, we all went to a lovely orchard in Sterling, MA. called Meadowbrook Orchards. The sandwiches were great and do not miss their apple turnovers.

So, back to Kathy. I am posting pictures of a few of the items she has made. I think you will enjoy working with her. She is positive and can help you understand working with knits from purchasing them, matching them to the right pattern and construction techniques on a regular sewing machine. If you have a serger, you are welcome to bring it, but it is not required to be able to take this class.

Please check out the web links on the right column for resources.

Patterns: Jalie, Christine Jonson, the major pattern companies: McCall’s, Butterick, Simplicity, Kwik Sew, Burda, New Look, Green Pepper all have patterns for knits. The Ottobre Designs Magazine always has some nice patterns for knit clothing. You can buy these patterns at each of the listed companies’ websites, plus: JoAnn’s, Pattern Review (website), Sewing Patterns.com, The Sewing Place, Sewzanne’s and others.
Since Fabric Place is closing, it is harder to find good quality knits locally. Online is our best resource for buying knits. This can be scary for us who like to feel the fabric before we buy it. Most online services will send you swatches of fabrics which interest you. And, places like Sawyer Brook, offer a regular swatching service in which you receive swatches of the new fabrics several times a year. Usually there is a small fee for this service, but it is worth it.

I have several sites listed. There are so many great knits available today. Eco friendly like Bamboo, or even Soy! Tencel, Rayon, Cotton and blends and Polyester and hemp, this list goes on. Check out: Emma One Sock; Sewzanne’s; Gorgeous Fabrics; Christine Jonson; Fashion Fabrics Club; Vogue Fabrics; Sawyer Brook Fabrics; The Rain Shed (known for activewear and outdoor fabrics), Denver Fabrics and I am sure there are other places I haven’t encountered, yet.

Kathy will be going over the basics for choosing the right materials for your project. Have some ideas in mind coming to the first class. One thing you need to know is that patterns for wovens are sized for woven fabrics. There is extra room built in for “wearing ease.” There needs to be space between you and the fabric so that you can move your body. With knits, the fabric itself has wearing ease built into it, from a little to a lot. Have you ever bought a knit shirt that was smaller than your body, but when you put it on, it fit perfectly? To get a skin tight, curve-hugging fit, the knit shirt had to be made smaller than your body measurements in order to fit that way. The give of the knit fabric allows it to hug your shape.

Different knits, have different stretch. Some stretch more in one direction than another. Most sweaters have more give across your body than up and down. Knits designed for activewear usually stretch equally across an up/down. Double knits, you may remember the cursed Leisure Suits of the 70′s, are very stable and hardly stretch at all. You would use a pattern for wovens for this type of knit.

Denver Fabrics has a very good page on their website describing different types of knits and their appropriate uses for garments. They also describe how much stretch is in different percentages of stretch suggested for patterns. You see, each pattern for knits will have a stretch guide on the back of the pattern envelope. For example. A 50% stretch fabric means that if you take a 4 inch piece of fabric, it must stretch at least 6 inches wide to qualify to be used in the pattern calling for 50% stretch. On Sewzanne’s web site, there is a description in the right hand column of each particular knit, how it is made and best suggested uses. So, if you click on the page for “French Terry,” it tells you its definition in the right hand column, next to the color listings.

I have been playing with knits more lately because of Kathy’s encouragement. I bought some Jalie patterns through Pattern Review. As a member, I receive a discount on patterns purchased through their website. Nearby is a picture of my daughter. She is wearing a shirt I made for her from Jalie pattern 2788. It is the twist top pattern with a couple of alterations. I made a girls size “8″ (Jalie sz “L”), but lengthened it quite a bit. As you can see, she is thin and long. I raised the back neckline so it no longer scoops or needs a tie. She wanted long sleeves that flare out at the bottom. A nice part of Jalie patterns is that they are sized from a girl’s size 2 up to a plus sized woman’s. I used this same pattern to make 2 different sleeveless tops for myself. You trace off your size from the heavy paper pattern. I like using Pattern Ease for this. Pattern Ease is sold by the yard. It is a non-woven polyester/rayon material which is stable in all directions and is sheer enough that it is easy to trace patterns. It is quite durable and I prefer it over Swedish Pattern paper or other tracing mediums. Fabric Corner, here in Arlington, usually carries it. It is often kept with the interfacings.

If you use Ottobre Designs, the patterns are traced off from a Magazine insert. Pattern Ease works great for this, too. Getting back to this shirt I made for Amelia on October 3rd…..After I traced and altered the pattern, I sewed the seams with the serger on a 4 thread overlock and used a twin needle for all of the hems. The 2 best things about the project were that I finished it in 2 1/2 hours and Amelia really liked the shirt and it fit her. I guess that is 3 things.

In conclusion, you will love this class. Kathy is personable and funny and knits are easier than you would think. You must know how to sew in order to join this class. This is not a class for beginners. If you are not sure where you stand, just call or email me to find out if you have enough experience.

Vicki has a certificate from the School of Fashion Design, on Newbury St, in Boston. I met her many years ago, when I needed someone to help me sew my products. She has an amazing talent with fabric. And, she has the ability to think creatively about overcoming a sew challenge.

Most of her freelance sewing is in the bridal arena. She has custom-made many bridal gowns and bridesmaids dresses. She knows how to fit clothing and has a far-reaching knowledge of sewing techniques.

Vicki is a good friend, support and wonderful teacher. If you take her class, you will come away with a wealth of knowledge. We hope to see you soon.

Komra is my sister and web designer extraordinaire

Komra is my sister. We grew up in Wisconsin and when I moved to Massachusetts, she was living in California. Now, she lives in Watertown. When she and her husband decided to move here 2 years ago, I found a place for her to live. The landlord the mother of one of my sewing students, Kim Swift. After being so far from close family, it has been great to have Komra only 10 minutes from me.

Komra has always been a talented artist. She has a deep love of horses and other animals. She could draw whatever she wanted when she was young. We would be coloring with crayons in a book. I would be trying to color within the lines and she would be shading and mixing colors. And, she is only 2 years older than me.

Komra went to college for art and left to do a coop program with a veterinarian. She found her way into the graphic arts field, working with weekly publications and print media. Over the years, she found her way into web design. She is a rare talent since she can not only design the visuals of a site, but build it herself. She is on contract with Budget/Avis and other successful companies around the US.

Komra has been pursuing her interest in Fine Art prints with her photographic mandalas. I will ask her to put links to her site here, so that you can view her work.

I am lucky to be able to have her talents available. Many of my students come to me through the web and the Wirkkala Designs web site. Now, we have this site dedicated to sewing and crafts. Don’t you think it is gorgeous? We were going for an Arts & Crafts/William Morris look. She found the fonts for the window lettering and logo, plus the borders and backgrounds. She makes everything easy, that would be nearly impossible for me to do. I am grateful for her gifts.