I spent very little time talking about the value of using a dress form. I guess I lost myself in the excitement of how simple and inexpensive making a custom one could be. So, I thought I would talk about what is so helpful about a dress form, especially one that reflects your body shape exactly.

Most of the time, you may imagine dress forms as being only for designers, or tailors, bridal shops, costumers and SERIOUS clothing makers. And, sometimes the price seems prohibitive, or you just don’t know what to do with it!

Dress forms are a great way to fit clothing, check the drape of the fabric, and try design ideas or alterations of someone else’s design. If you want to make the effort of sewing your own clothing worthwhile, time and energy need to be spent in checking the fit several times during the construction process. A knowledgeable sewing friend is necessary to truly help you fit the garment well to your body. They can pin the fabric to fit better, hang better, flatter your figure better.

Most of us are sewing at all times of the day or night. We may not have that friend available at 1:30am when it’s time to check the fit in the seat. We can contort ourselves trying to pinch and pin and adjust, but it is very hard to do on ourselves.

What if, you had a clone of yourself to stand there for hours, never complaining, never needing to take a bathroom break, willing to be there until all hours of the night? What if they always agreed on your choice of music? Let you stick pins in them? Too good to be true? Not anymore.

The idea of a custom dress form is nothing new. From what I have read, paper tape dress forms have been around since the 1930’s. I’m talking about ones made out of layers of paper packaging/mailing tape, which are done in a similar way to the duct tape forms that I am referring to below. That was a time when most women knew how to sew. Machines would be tucked inside a sewing cabinet which looked like a table. When I say that women knew how to sew, I mean, they really knew how to sew. The styles and details and difficult tailoring were commonplace. Think back to some to the styles and how well fit they were to the body. I love looking at designs in movies from the 1940’s. Back then, it wouldn’t be so hard to find someone to help you with your fitting, because so many of your friends shared the same skills and interests. Now, it may not be so easy.

I love how some item that was designed for one use is used in a completely different way that it was designed for. When I worked at a Sail Loft on Lake Superior, I had this boss named Rich Smith. He wasn’t one to talk a lot or shower one with compliments. Glowing praise from him might be “Good job, LW.” He never used my first name. It would always be Wirkkala or LW. But, I always felt my work was appreciated and that he understood when a job was “yucky” or a pain. (this is becoming a shaggy dog story….) Repairing sails is hard work. The floor becomes your work table. The sails are huge, you crawl around a lot, sometimes they are smelly from being wet or moldy. The sewing machine was built into the floor, actually, it was suspended from the ceiling of the boat shop downstairs. Rich said that he didn’t think I wanted to see what held me and the machine into the floor. The machine was in the floor so that the weight of the sail didn’t pull it away from the machine while sewing. I would have to sit sideways on a stool, to keep out of the way of the sail as it fed through the machine. Sometimes, another person would have to pull the sail while I was sewing so that it would run through the machine straight and steady. The machine was very powerful and would go through very thick material, as much as 1/2-3/4 inch thick. The needle would get so hot from the speed and friction that it would smoke. If the area was really thick, we would spray it with silicone, to make the needle slide through the layers better. Rich had a great sense of humor. He would tell us stories about sailboat racing. Often the funniest were of times when things didn’t go well.

To drum up business, we would go to the sailboat races locally and in Duluth, MN. One time, we went to Duluth for the Wednesday evening race. It’s light late in the summer, until 9:30pm. We arrived at Canal Park for the pre-race meeting. One of the things that happens at the meeting is that anyone who needs crew for their boat, puts out the call and people respond. Since there were 4 of us, we split up between boats. I was put with a small, 22 ft boat with a 3 man crew. Because I worked in a Sail Loft, the captain assumed that I knew how to sail. On the way to his boat, I confessed that I didn’t know anything about sailing except how to be movable ballast. He looked me up and down and said that he doubted that I would be much use in that case. (I was really skinny then and my weight moving from side to side wouldn’t be much help to the boat’s tilt in the water.) When a sail boat is tacking, it heels over, or leans to one side. Usually, in a brisk wind, the crew sits on the high side of the boat to help it not heel over too far and help increase the speed of the boat through the water. If the wind is really slow, the crew may sit on the low side for the same reason, different circumstance. Sometimes, the only job a crew member will have is “movable ballast,” meaning that all they do is switch sides of the boat as it tacks (turns.) Movable ballast is the job given to people who don’t know how to sail.

When we got to his boat and I discovered how small it was, I became nervous. There was barely enough room under the boom for me to crawl from one side of the boat to the other when we tacked, even less with a life jacket on. Yet, I wasn’t in a situation where I felt I could back out. I came to wish I had. There had been a storm on the lake the previous few days. So, even though it was clear, the waves had turned into rollers which were 8-10 feet high. Rollers don’t crest, they just go up and down. Any of you ocean-going people are probably laughing at me right now. I am a lake girl, and where we lived, the Apostle Islands broke up the fury of the lake to some extent, therefore, I had never encountered being on a boat in that condition.

As we exited the canal into the lake, I realized I was in trouble and wished that I had not agreed to be a crew on any of the boats. But, it was too late. The whole time we were out there, I had only 2 wishes. First, not to fall off the boat and secondly, not to throw up.

When we finally finished the race and reconnoitered in Rich’s Suburban, we all sat there, thankful for the lack of movement. Rich said, “you’re out there and you think, ‘If the boat would just stop moving for 10 seconds, I would feel better.” One of the girls with us had been feeling nauseous on their boat, so she got sent to the low side of the boat. That way if she got sick, no one else would have to suffer for it. (Think of spitting into the wind.) This was a brisk night and you can imagine how it must have felt to have been near the water on the low side of a boat, as it is racing across the lake.

So, back to the unintended use of products. When out on a boat and a sail rips, duct tape is often used to temporarily hold the rip together. It works in wet and dry circumstances. Rich used to say, “…..and on the 7th day, God created Duct tape!” So, here I am, over 20 years later, continuing my relationship with duct tape in another way.

Finally, to get back to the value of a dress form. You can save yourself many headaches and disappointments if you can fit your clothing on a form that matches your body. You learn how to change patterns to fit you. What needs to be done to flatter your figure. If any of you watch “What not to Wear,” you will hear them respond to a woman who talks about needing to lose weight, “we want you to dress for the body you have now.” So, if it fits you well, it will make you look good and feel good. You can save yourself money and headaches in the future. It can also help you create with success instead of guesswork. Why? Different fabrics react differently in the same pattern. I made a pattern of a linen shirt I love. I used quilting cottons for my new shirt. The shirt came out fine, but it didn’t fit the same because the linen has a flexibility that the cotton does not. It hangs in a different way. If I had a form, I could check that on it and make adjustments. I will take pictures of those shirts so that you can see a “knock-off.” That means a garment for which the pattern is taken off of another piece of clothing.

So, after all of this, here is what you need to bring with you when you come to the workshop:

• Long T-shirt or close-fitting turtleneck, this will become part of the dress form, so it has to be one that you are willing to sacrifice to the cause! If the shirt doesn’t go past the hipline, we can extend it

• Leggings or tights to wear while being taped

• Undergarments like you wear under most of your clothes, so that the form will be shaped (conformed, constricted, or left to hang) like your body is on a daily basis.

• Breath mints, just kidding!

If you have been to the shop, or see the pictures on the site, you know that there are large windows across the front and on the door. All shades and curtains will be pulled closed and the door will be locked so that we won’t have any surprise visitors while we are holding this workshop. If at any time you feel uncomfortable, we will stop and cut the form off immediately.

I will walk everyone through the process and demonstrate the taping techniques. We may need to do some prep of your shirt, etc. and we will do that, too. I will supervise every form made so that you will be happy with the one you take home with you. No swapping!

I think that teams of 3 work really well. One person being taped by 2 others. One in front and one in back. I think it will go better that way and faster.

There are ways to make stands and fill the forms. I will present them to you and you can decide what you want to do. You will need to buy fiberfill, (polyester fill for pillows and stuffed animals) to fill and support your form. I have seen various options, included packing peanuts. I have seen it recommended that the bust be filled with raglan shoulder pads. Let’s see how it goes and I will answer any questions you have about finishing them. If need be, we may have a short follow-up class.

The final thing is that I can teach you how to use your form through the classes you take for sewing. If your body does change, you will know how to make the form. With help from a good friend, you can remake the form in short order and very little monetary outlay.

I look forward to seeing you soon!

Got Tape anyone?
I am very interested in custom-made dress forms of late. Most of my adult life, I would buy a pattern, add 5 inches to the pants length and 2 inches to the sleeves, and the clothing would fit fine. I have steadily been gaining weight over the last decade and can no longer do that. Who wants to make clothes that don’t fit? It’s a lot of work wasted if you do not take the time to do the fitting. But, to do this well, you need a good sewing friend to help you, or a dress form that fits your body.

So, I have been researching custom forms and experimenting with forms made of duct tape or paper packaging tape.

These are pictures of my daughter and her custom-made form of duct tape. I am hoping to schedule a class to share my findings with you, so that you can make a form that fits your body, too. The first date I am considering is coming up fast - Sunday, February 9, 2008 from 10am-4pm. (NOTE THE CHANGE OF DATE!)

I have spoken to my current students, and many of you would like to do this. So, I say, “Why wait?” I am thinking that we should limit the class to 10 students, working in pairs, or even better, trios. If there are more students than I can accommodate that day, I will set another date soon. I will post a small list of what you need to bring, shortly. By clicking on the links in the paragraph above the picture, you can get a preview of what we will be doing. In fact, if you do plan on taking the class, I encourage you to read up as much as you can so that you will be familiar with the process.

Threads Magazine has had articles over the years about dress forms. Click here to view the a summary of the 4 different ways they recommend to making your own forms. Their article also includes links to various websites which have more detailed instructions and pdf downloads.

The cost for the day is $90. We will have refreshments and lunch available. Duct tape is included. Plus most of the other materials needed. That way, you can eat when you are not being fit.

If you should have any questions, please feel free to contact me.

So, after all of this, here is what you need to bring with you when you come to the workshop:

• Long T-shirt or close-fitting turtleneck, this will become part of the dress form, so it has to be one that you are willing to sacrifice to the cause! If the shirt doesn’t go past the hipline, we can extend it

• Leggings or tights to wear while being taped

• Undergarments like you wear under most of your clothes, so that the form will be shaped (conformed, constricted, or left to hang) like your body is on a daily basis.

• Breath mints, just kidding!

If you have been to the shop, or see the pictures on the site, you know that there are large windows across the front and on the door. All shades and curtains will be pulled closed and the door will be locked so that we won’t have any surprise visitors while we are holding this workshop. If at any time you feel uncomfortable, we will stop and cut the form off immediately.

I will walk everyone through the process and demonstrate the taping techniques. We may need to do some prep of your shirt, etc. and we will do that, too. I will supervise every form made so that you will be happy with the one you take home with you. No swapping!

I think that teams of 3 work really well. One person being taped by 2 others. One in front and one in back. I think it will go better that way and faster.

There are ways to make stands and fill the forms. I will present them to you and you can decide what you want to do. You will need to buy fiberfill, (polyester fill for pillows and stuffed animals) to fill and support your form. I have seen various options, included packing peanuts. I have seen it recommended that the bust be filled with raglan shoulder pads. Let’s see how it goes and I will answer any questions you have about finishing them. If need be, we may have a short follow-up class.

The final thing is that I can teach you how to use your form through the classes you take for sewing. If your body does change, you will know how to make the form. With help from a good friend, you can remake the form in short order and very little monetary outlay.

I look forward to seeing you on Sunday, March 16th!

Learning new ways to produce historic garments

This past week, at my daughter’s school, they held a World Fest. It was a great opportunity to expose the students to other cultures. The students were encouraged to wear costumes during the day representing their national background.

Since our background in mainly Finnish, with a little Swedish thrown in, I did an online search for what a traditional costume for a girl would be in Finland. I found these two websites: Finnish National Costume and Kutri’s Korner.

I decided to make an outfit which would evoke the feel of the costume while making use of fabrics in my stash. I found a woven striped fabric I made into a simple dirndl skirt. It took me less than an hour, which lead me to believe that I could easily make a whole outfit in a day. The apron was one I made for a friend’s daughter for Colonial Days at her school (Brackett Elementary) last Spring. I borrowed that and she gave me a button-down, white shirt to use if I needed it.

I didn’t see any good vest patterns online. So, I pinned pieces of Swedish Tracing Paper to my daughter’s T-shirt. (I actually prefer Pattern Ease, but I used what I had.) I traced the lines I wanted for the vest and fit the paper to her shape. I made a pattern, adding seam allowances and truing seamlines. Even though it was for one day, I couldn’t bring myself to do anything other than make a fully lined and finish garment. I found some Logger’s Flannel which I had bought years ago from The Rain Shed. Finnish vests are made from wool, luckily, this heavy flannel looked a lot like wool. I lined it in black moire, interfacing the front with Knit Fuse interfacing. The front closures are some frog-like links we had bought from the Wright’s Ribbon Outlet in Sturbridge, MA. (If you have never been there, it is worth the trip!) I don’t know why we bought them, I think it was one of the items Amelia chose with the shopping allowance I gave her. Fortunate for us when it came to making this outfit. I was very tired when it was time to attach them to the vest, so I tacked them on with the machine, in matching thread.

The last item was a white blouse. I didn’t have time to make a whole new blouse, but I wasn’t happy with the look of a button-down shirt in it’s place. So, I compromised and removed the collar and cuffs. I added a gathered flounce collar to the neckline and trimmed it in lace. The lace was actually from a lace snowflake kit I bought at Wright’s outlet. Then, I released the pleat at the bottom of the sleeve, added fabric and sewed lace over the joining seam. I wove burgundy cording through the lace and tied it around the sleeve. It was almost 3 am by that time, so I packed it all up and went home to bed.

My daughter had some white tights and black shoes which completed the outfit. I knew that it wasn’t exactly what the girls wear in Finland, but was pleased later in the day when I ran into a friend who had spent time in Finland an exclaimed that the outfit looked just like what she saw girls wearing when she lived there. Amelia made the appropriate praises and gave me a nice number of hugs to have made the loss of sleep worthwhile.

In Massachusetts, the public schools have 3rd graders study Colonial times. Many schools have Colonial Days in which the students come to school for the day dressed in costumes like children would wear during that time in history.

I have a special interest in this since my daughter is in 3rd grade this year. She has an American Girl Doll “from” Colonial Williamsburg. Elizabeth is her name. The February vacation (2006) after she received the doll, we visited Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia. I have a friend, Amy, who coaches the Fifes and Drums corps there and often plays music on flute and piano for events in Williamsburg historic area. The visitor center allows parents to rent costumes for the children to wear. They are simple white dresses and mop caps for girls. I have to admit that I cannot remember what they had for boys, other than 3 cornered hats. It was fun for my daughter to walk around wearing the dress and cap, carrying her doll, who was in her own costume, too.

I remember when Amy started working there over 10 years ago. She talked to me about how she had to make her own dress. It had to be out of certain materials and sewn all by hand!

Well, I am not so interested in being that authentic. Meaning, I plan to use a sewing machine for most of the construction. Luckily, McCall’s Pilgrim or McCall’s Fancier Colonial and Simplicity have issued patterns for different eras in American history. Unfortunately, these patterns are only available for girls. They offer no patterns of this era for boys. The following do have patterns for both. There is a company in Colorado, Patterns of Time, which offers many historic patterns. Sewing Central offers patterns and material. You may find Kannik’s Korner on the previous 2 sites, but they do offer a few patterns for girls and boys. Harper House offers many patterns from various eras. Their link takes you to the page for Children’s Colonial clothing. All of these linked names will take you as close as I can get you to pages for patterns for Children. You may find it fun to explore the sites. I have never used the patterns of these independent companies. They may be best suited to an experienced sewer.

The patterns vary in difficulty. Last year, I made costumes for my neighbor and her daughter. They were very simple, and we can use the patterns I drafted, too.

I have purchased the McCall’s and Simplicity patterns so that I can make samples for you to see. I may end up making the more elaborate dress while we are working on your projects. I will hang it near the front window so you you can observe the progress of the outfit. As soon as I finish the first dress, I will post it online here. I will find a pattern for a boy’s outfit, too. They can be easier to manufacture from their current wardrobe by altering pants and dressing with the right accessories.

I have been trying to find a time in my class schedule that would work for us to meet as a group on this topic of sewing. I would like to propose Wednesday evenings. Or, it may be possible to do a Thursday 11am-2pm time slot. If those times do not work for you, join any class. My classes allow you to work on what you want at your own pace, so it would be fine to come at a class time that is convenient. Though, I think that working together on these outfits together can be helpful, inspiring and a lot of fun.

A new sewing machine can be both an exciting and scary prospect. It is very easy to be discouraged when you try to figure out how to use it on your own. There are a few simple things you can do to make sure that you have success when using your machine. But, the manuals aren’t always clear on what to do.

Here at Laura’s Sewing School, we LOVE to teach beginners. We love all of our students, but we are happy to open the fun world of sewing to new enthusiasts. I have yet to meet a machine I couldn’t figure out. And, I will be able to demystify its workings for you. We can make some fun projects right from the beginning.

There are still spaces left in the classes starting in January 2008. So, give us a call or send an email. We are happy to answer any of your questions and if you want, sign you up for a class.

A long title, I know. But, this happens often. You decide that you want to take a sewing class, find my website, but the classes just started, or they start tomorrow and you cannot free up your schedule until next week. If we have the space in the class you want, we can take late registrations and charge you a pro-rated fee. So, don’t be afraid to contact us when this happens. If you are a beginner, or any other level, you won’t have missed anything, because everyone works on their own projects, at their own pace.

I have been sewing since middle school. I could not even begin to estimate how many items I have sewn. Not only for myself, but gifts for friends and family, plus as part of the many sewing jobs I have done in my life.

Here are some examples of my work. I will post pictures as I find them. Click on image to enlarge it. Then use the back button of your browser to return to this page.

This picture is of several projects. I painted and decoupaged the dresser on the left of the photo. The little dress above it, I made for my daughter when she was a baby. I came up with a way to cover gripper snaps with fabric for the back, so they would be less bulky than buttons. The quilt above the ironing board was a project my daughter chose to do. She picked the pattern, the fabrics and then helped with the construction. She loves ironing, so she pressed the folded centers of the flowers. She was worried about not being able to sew straight, so she press the clutch of the sewing machine while I guided the fabric for some of it. It’s like driving a car while someone else has control of the accelerator. Luckily, we all arrived safely. At the time, I was a member of the Quilter’s Connection. I was entering my Elephant walk quilt in the show. My daughter wanted to enter a quilt but didn’t really get serious about it until the Saturday before the Thursday morning deadline. You can guess what I worked on almost exclusively those 4 1/2 days. It was fun to work together with her. She was 5 years old at the time. She has been using a sewing machine since she was 4. Now, she is 8.

Before and after pictures of a chair I slipcovered for my sister. I did it in one day, while I was visiting her in Maryland. I brought along my Bernina Activa.

I made these blue sheers for my sister, Peggy, too. They had some navy valances in place already, along with some cellular shades behind them.

I had window lettering done by Tricia O’Neill in December 2006. Just a short time before opening my new space for classes. I felt for awhile that a sign above the shop was needed. The framework for the old metal sign was still attached to the front of the building. I measured it and decided to make my own sign. I used outdoor friendly fabric. First I traced the letters on my window and enlarged them 150% with a pantograph. Then I fused the cut letters to the background fabric. I had drawn chalk lines on the red fabric to help me space the letters. Then, I stitched them around the edges with UV protected thread. One I was done, I sewed heavy duty velcro to the edges. With help from my friend, Cynthia Murray, and her husband, we mounted the fabric sign to the framework on the building. Luckily, it fit. Now, I just have to get some lighting on it.